Nautical blog

Maintaining your steering cylinder: our best expert recommendations

Maintaining your steering cylinder: Workshop recommendations The observation is simple: your autopilot is your best teammate. But its "brain" (the computer) is useless without its "muscle" (the actuator). Whether hydraulic (Lecomble & Schmitt, Hypro) or electromechanical (Raymarine Type 1/2, Jefa), the steering ram is a wear part subjected to enormous stresses. It absorbs tons of thrust with every wave. Yet, it is often the most neglected component during winterization. Here is our technicians' checklist to avoid ending up at the tiller in the middle of the Bay of Biscay. 1. The bane of existence: Salt on the stem This is the number one cause of hydraulic leaks. The hydraulic cylinder is often installed in an aft locker or sail locker, damp and salty environments. If salt crystallizes on the rod (the chrome piston that extends and retracts), these crystals act like sandpaper on the seals (oil seals) with each movement. Expert tip: Rinse the stem regularly with fresh water. Wipe it with a clean cloth. What not to do: Do ​​not grease the shaft with thick grease that will attract dust and salt. Use a dry Teflon (PTFE) spray or a lightly oiled cloth, nothing more. 2. The hunt for mechanical "play" (ball joints and fixings) An autopilot that "wobbles" or consumes too much power is often poorly mounted. The ram is connected to the steering quadrant and the boat's frame by ball joints (rose joints). Over time, these ball joints develop play. The test: Disengage the pilot. Take the cylinder body in your hand and shake it laterally and vertically. The verdict: If you feel a "clack-clack", the ball joint is dead or the fixing bolt is loose. ⚠️ Danger: Even 1mm of play can translate into violent impacts in rough seas, potentially leading to the support being torn off (we've seen it far too often). Tighten or replace the ball joints immediately. 3. Hydraulics: The color of the oil doesn't lie If you have a hydraulic cylinder, take a look at the reservoir (whether it is integrated or remote). Level: Check that it is between the minimum and maximum marks. A drop in level always indicates a leak. Wipe absorbent paper under the fittings to locate the seepage. Colour: The oil should be clear and transparent. Black oil? The seals are disintegrating. "Mayonnaise" oil? Water has entered the system. Action: In both cases, a complete purge and replacement of the seals are necessary. 4. The blind spot: The motor brushes This is the "silly" breakdown that often occurs after 3,000 or 4,000 hours of navigation. The electric motor that drives the pump or the auger has carbon brushes. When these are worn, the motor first starts to misfire, then stops completely. Skysat tip: If your power unit is over 10 years old or has been around the world, disassemble the electric motor to inspect the length of the brushes. Is there a lot of black dust inside? It's time to replace them (maintenance kit available). 5. Clutch and belt (Mechanical cylinders) On electro-mechanical cylinders (Raymarine type), the transmission is often done via a small internal belt. If you hear the engine running but the bar does not move (or slips) under heavy load, do not look for the computer: it is often the belt that is loose or the clutch that is worn. 💬 Final word A hydraulic cylinder doesn't give any warning before it fails, unless you know how to listen for it. A new noise, a squeak, or a trace of oil are warning signs. Are you unsure about the condition of your hydraulic cylinder before the season? Don't take any risks. Disassemble it and send it to our workshop. We perform a complete test bench (pressure, sealing, power consumption) to validate its reliability.